C'est Si Bon

I woke up to church bells this morning. There was a golden glow of sunrise beyond the rooftop of my hotel in Beziers, France and I was nestled under warm cotton sheets and a big, poufy down comforter. I imagined Eartha Kit singing “C’est Si Bon” somewhere in the background, because it was.

I wandered to a corner café for a cup of tea, some orange juice and a croissant. I know – a croissant, for me (for those that don’t know I have some dietary boundaries), but literally hot out of the oven on a cold sunny morning I decided to take one for ‘team tourist’. Surprisingly, it seemed to agree with me! It must be travel magic.

There is a distinct light to southern France. Perhaps it is the angle. Perhaps it is how it reflects upon the stone buildings. I’m not sure but it has the ability to take my breath away. Yesterday afternoon I spent my time chasing sunlight through the alleys and plazas in this very quaint little French town, which is about an hour southwest of Avignon (pictures below). Beziers is a medieval town that sits on a hill above the Canal du Midi, which runs ribbon-like from Toulouse in the Mid-Pyrenees, to just short of Bordeaux.

Beziers is part of Languedoc-Roussillon which happens to be one of the world’s biggest wine producing regions, even exceeding the production of Australia, Bordeaux, Chile and South Africa combined. Apparently, the region boasts the most varied production of wine in all of France. And, to pay homage to this feat, last evening I located a small restaurant, Le Chameau Ivre (The Drunken Camel) that was also a wine shop. I was in pursuit of a true taste of the region, so over a glass of something red and delicious, coupled with a plate of smoked mussels and rustic bread right out of the oven, I did just that.

The train ride to Beziers yesterday was quite beautiful. It followed the same route as my trip to Girona earlier in the week. Once north of Girona the Pyrenees came up quickly in the west. The mountain range reaches 11,000 in altitude and was beautifully snow-covered against a clear blue sky. The land surrounding them, probably not surprising given the wine production, looks a lot like Sonoma, CA; a bit rugged and similar in vegetation. At one point the train tracks go through the Narbonne Nature Park, which seems to be mostly coastal marshland that skirts the ocean, so you can see from the seacoast to the mountains in one sweep. It was spectacular.

I am farther north in the region than Spain and the temperature reflects that. I woke to 28 degrees this morning. I have to take my hat off to the French, and perhaps Europeans in general, they are a hardy sort, seemingly content to sit in their outside cafes sipping cappuccino and talking with friends, even in 28 degree weather. Perhaps I have become wimpy. Perhaps I am just not wrapped in the appropriate clothing, but then I see little kids without mittens and in sweaters playing without a care. It reminded me of the wise words of a teacher I once knew at Keene State College, Rick, who road his bike across the country one summer. When I asked him how it was, how he had dealt with the weather, his response was, “Liz, there is no such thing as bad weather, just an poor choice in clothing.” Truer words could not be said. In my efforts to pack light for this trip I traveled with just a carry on. In hindsight I would have brought some warmer clothes and a bigger suitcase.

Yesterday was brisk and sunny and I spent the afternoon, as noted above, wandering in and out of alleyways and streets. The streets are lined with little boutiques filled with French fashion and objects d'art. There was definitely some of the haute couture to marvel – and wonder – at, but there was also an earthiness and elegance to most of the fashion. The colors displayed for women this year appear to be earth tones, somehow magically combined with bits of complimentary bling or feathers. It’s actually quite intriguing and captivating. I had to remind myself I only have the carry on, I only have the carry on…. The people are friendly and smile a lot. Men in particular have a keen ability for a lingering look and smile. Oh my, my, what that can do for a woman’s state of mind. For those that know me well (bizarrely shy in this area), rest assured I have practiced, and perhaps perfected, the ability to return the same gaze.

This afternoon I take the train back to Barcelona. The city will be preparing for Three Kings Day, January 6th, their big Christmas celebration and I suspect the town will be buzzing.

I will be back in the states in one week. It’s been an incredible experience; one that I will remember forever. I have managed to not plan during my time abroad and if anything was planned, certainly it was not done with any great detail. For me that has always been my gateway to curiosity and discovery. When I don’t expect anything that means everything is possible.